Journal

Oct 25: Luxor

Oct 25: Luxor

Yesterday ended with an animated debate about the nature of Ahmed, the patriarch of the family in Palace Walk, followed by an impromptu party in the hall. An early morning flight over the desert to Luxor landed us at the Temple of Karnak by 8:30 am. This is the site […]

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Oct 24: Cairo

Oct 24: Cairo

Here we are on Palace Walk, the setting for our first book (of the same name). We are in front of a spice store, the business owned by our anti-hero, Ahmed. He was a bon-vivant in the street but a tyrant at home. View Slideshows of Egypt and Jordan View […]

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Oct. 23: Cairo

Oct. 23: Cairo

This is the best I could do to take a picture of the interior stairwell of the building that houses our utterly charming hotel on the fifth floor. Kind of retro French Oriental. Large rooms with high, high ceilings. Exquisite middle eastern lights and tapestries. It is on a busy […]

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Oct. 22: Cairo

Oct. 22: Cairo

A great day at Giza. Why is it so hard to find words to describe the Cairo experience? It is sensory overload in the best way. Brimming with life and contradictions. How many images have I seen of the pyramids and the sphinx? And why is it that being face […]

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Oct 21: Arrive in Cairo

Oct 21: Arrive in Cairo

Short flight from Amman to Cairo, which to eyes that had become accustomed to the unbelievable aridity of Jordan, Cairo from the air looked remarkably green. We are in a wildly bustling part of the city. No way I can describe the throbbing of people and vehicles of every type […]

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Oct. 20-21: Petra

Oct. 20-21: Petra

We watched a very tender and touching Jordanian movie last night – Captain Abu Raed. I recommend it highly and gave copy to a hotel employee who expressed great interest and implied how hard it is to find and pay for DVDs here. Perhaps I’ve been duped, but I choose […]

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Oct. 19: Amman, Mt. Nebo, Kerak, Petra

Oct. 19: Amman, Mt. Nebo, Kerak, Petra

Writing this on the last leg of journey to Petra, which we will visit tomorrow. I got up early and wandered out to see how Amman gets up in the morning. Saw street cleaners sweeping; shop keepers opening up; children with backpacks waiting for school busses; people heading off to […]

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Oct. 18, Amman and Jerash

Oct. 18, Amman and Jerash

Where did yesterday go? This really is the first day of being abroad, but it somehow took two days to get here. Everyone arrived. Off we headed to Jerash this morning, the most extraordinary and extensive Roman ruins. The hippodrome, the oval-shaped agora, theatre, temples to Zeus, Artemis, et al. […]

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Oct. 16: Toronto to Jordan

Oct. 16: Toronto to Jordan

Four of us just arrived at JFK in New York (from Toronto) and have SEVEN hours to wait and wander before lifting off for Amman. Two others will arrive later to join us on this flight and we will meet the rest of the group at the hotel. Because I […]

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Degrees of Difficulty

Sitting here thinking about that is easy and what is hard. Of course, this varies hugely among folks. So, I’m talking about me here. So many people never thought I’d make it to the end of my long walk up and over the Pyrenees in France and then across the breadth of […]

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